Martin Gott’s cheese-making day doesn’t start until 8.30 am. By that time the milk vat is full. With just 100 litres. Most of the small farms that supply cheese to the Courtyard Dairy use around 1,000-3,000 litres of milk each day. So 100 litres is comparatively a tiny amount, and it means Martin only makes a handful (barely 12) ‘St James’ cheeses each day. Making St James on such a small scale is one reason it’s special. But there are loads more reasons too: seasonality, farming techniques, method of cheese-making, and ultimately, the dedication of Martin and his partner Nicola, all of which make St James Cheese truly unique – a farmhouse cheese that truly reflects terroir. Martin grew up in Cumbria, a member of the famous Gott dynasty, who ran butchers shops and markets throughout the region, including Barrow, Lancaster, Kendal and Morecambe. A proper Cumbrian lad, he met Nicola, at an early age – they both attended the same secondary school in Kirkby Lonsdale. After leaving school, Martin trained as a butcher on the family farm with his father, Peter Gott, then went on to take over running their stall in London’s famous Borough Market. But Martin had been…